DESIGNER INTERVIEW: CEMENT CHEMISTRY
Cement Chemistry is the truly unique vision of architect Elena Kapompasopoulou, a collection of handmade limited edition jewellery, crafted from cement using innovative design and fabrication techniques.
You trained as an architect and now have become an accomplished jewelry designer. Have you always been interested in jewellery? What was the impetus for you starting your line?
Focusing on a field other than architecture, was definitely not in my original plan. A sequence of life events though, led me to explore the jewelry world and experiment with a challenging material. Architecture, even though it is considered a creative and interesting profession, has a very slow design and construction process. It might take years (sometimes even decades) from the initial concept to the completion of the building, and each phase is not as creative as people think. Eventually, I reached a point in my career where I was mainly coordinating projects rather than designing. Thus, I felt that my creativity was fading out. This is mainly what interested me in jewelry design.
Do you have a formal training in jewelry design?
No, I had no prior experience in jewelry. I started experimenting with cement in 2014 and produced the very first jewelry in my kitchen at home.
My first collection ‘straightedge’ was launched in 2015 and the second one ‘manifold’ was created for my participation at ‘LOOT’ Mad About Jewelry Exhibition, at the Museum of Art & Design (MAD) in New York. I had to produce 150 handmade pieces in my kitchen (I didn’t have a studio space back then) for the demands of the exhibition and that was a very challenging process for me. But this is what brought me to today, selling my jewelry lines internationally through my e-shop (www.cement-chemistry.com).
Cement Chemistry necklace and earring in concrete. Photo credit: George Kroustallis. Model: Artemis Monachogios.
Why did you decide to start using concrete to make jewellery? Did you experiment with other materials?
Concrete is considered by the majority of people as a cold, grey and unfriendly material. Used extensively in construction, it is usually covered, painted or tiled. My architectural background and the extensive use of concrete in building erection inspired me to disrupt the conventional bond between cement and architecture, and familiarize it with the human body. In 2014, I first started experimenting with the properties of cement, and in 2015 I launched my first collection. Then, in 2016, I introduced pastel colors into the concrete mix and also combined it with precious metals. This year, I decided to incorporate leather into my designs and made two one-of-a-kind pieces.
Is your use of concrete and gold unique? Can you explain a little bit about the process?
I believe it is. There are a couple of pieces I made from concrete and gold, and I haven’t yet seen anything similar in the market. Tonos Ring, is my design that recently won the Silver A’ Design Award – an international design competition (with 45,906 project submissions, 10,694 approved works and 1,962 award winners for the year 2017-2018) so there must be something innovative and unique with the design.
The production of the ring follows a meticulous seven step process. The ring is designed in 2D plans, elevations, sections and in 3D. Then it is tested digitally for various factors that include its comfort, functionality and tolerance. As soon as the model meets the standard criteria, it is sent for 3D printing. The third step includes the cast of a silicon mould, and the fourth, the metalwork of the ring core. As soon as those two components are ready, I proceed with the casting of the concrete. The last two steps include sanding and polishing/sealing.
Who is your customer? Is it possible to define a Cement Chemistry customer?
My clients are people who love and appreciate art; they are often designers themselves and / or art collectors. Typically they are women aged from around 30 to 70 or so with an admiration of design, often reflected in the way they dress. I find that more conservative people are not that drawn to my designs.
Selling face to face is very crucial; it’s a way for me to truly realize who my clientele is and to understand their needs and preferences better. It’s also the best way for people to see and feel my work. It’s hard to truly convey the essence of it online (people think cement is heavy) but when they touch the object, they can feel how smooth and light it is and are truly amazed.
I find important for people to touch and feel my jewelry, as they have nothing to compare them with and also no knowledge of what concrete jewelry is like. It’s a big challenge to convince people that concrete can be light, wearable and skin friendly. We have worked hard to represent this through photographs, both on the website and on Instagram.
At the moment I am mostly selling to customers in New York and Greece, but I am looking to form partnerships in other markets and hoping to be in a concept store in Manhattan very soon.
Cement Chemistry ring concrete and gold. Photo Credit: Irini Giotopoulou
You recently won a Silver A’ Design Award for your Tonos Ring. What is the significance of the award for you?
I believe the most important thing is that a different audience (apart from you and your friends) appreciates and respects your design language and craftsmanship. An international award also opens the doors to a global audience. But what really defines success is people appreciating and enjoying my jewelry.
You have assembled an impressive team with diverse yet complimentary skills. How did you bring them together? What qualities do you look for when looking for people to work with you?
A sequence of events made me decide to build my team. I am a full time architect, so I reached a point where my schedule became too overwhelming for me to handle. After a full day in the office, I was going to my studio until 10pm every evening working on my jewelry. I would have a brief break to cook and eat and then I’d work on marketing. I worked on that schedule for almost eighteen months and then I collapsed! I knew that I needed people with specialist skills to develop Cement Chemistry. I am trained as an architect, so I have no professional experience in marketing, business planning nor photography. Therefore, I had to find brilliant individuals capable to guide me through and help me build a healthy and robust brand.
For me it is critical, not only to have a team of experts, but also to work with people who are inspiring, creative and challenging. We don’t work ‘by default’, we love to break the rules every time. Sometimes we fail, sometimes we succeed, and luckily for me, that is what I have in my team.
Cement Chemistry bangles pastel color
How do you balance the demands of your busy career as an architect with your jewellery business?
The first two years were extremely difficult, but I got better at using my time more efficiently. If for whatever reason, something doesn’t work, I let it go for a while. The idea will still be there, waiting for me. It won’t go anywhere. I focus on something different and give myself space and time to think. I avoid burning myself without being productive. Today might not be my day to create it, so I accept it and move on.
The other crucial thing for me has been learning to trust my team and making the most out of their expertise.
Do you find New York an inspiring place to be living and working today? What are the challenges it presents?
New York is such an inspiring place. So many cultures, neighborhoods and buildings with different histories that come together in a city with such small footprint. It’s a city of experiences. You might have your best one in a museum, or during a long walk from Central Park to Battery Park. I’ve lived in the Netherlands, Italy, China and Greece but there’s nowhere else like New York.
I definitely owe the brand Cement Chemistry to New York (and to architecture – of course). The city has so much to offer and the rhythm of life feeds you with a lot of energy, although that same rhythm can be very draining and exhausting. It can eat you alive! I believe in balance, yet it is hard to find or achieve here. You need to be flexible and avoid extremes. For me, the greatest challenge is finding the balance between work, life, friends and family.
Which are your favorite buildings in New York? Any hidden gems that you'd like to share with us?
One of my favorite locations in the city is Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park, designed by Louis Kahn on the south side of Roosevelt Island. It’s a stunning space that everyone should visit, though few people seem to know about.
One of my beloved buildings is the Met Breuer. A critical factor about buildings and what makes them successful to me, is the experience I have when I walk around their spaces - the Met Breuer has an incredible staircase, beautiful engagement of materials in a very detail-oriented design. Its such an inspiring and unique space for me. I love it. The last time I visited, was to see the Jeff Koon’s exhibition, a few years ago, and it was one of the most exciting experiences I’ve had in the city. The museum was open to the public around the clock, so I visited around midnight. It was almost empty and I had the luxury of experiencing the exhibition all to myself.
Lucy Curran, communications advisor and copywriter
