DESIGNER INTERVIEW: ALINE VOLDOIRE

Aline Voldoire began her label in 2016 after many years of making clothes for herself and her friends. She is a true ‘made in New York’ brand with her clothes produced in the Garment District in a socially and environmentally conscious way. 

Academia brought you to New York and you now teach history, but along the way you became a clothes designer. How did that happen? Do you have a design background? 

I don’t have a design background but as a child I loved to draw and this definitely helped later on when it came to sketching my ideas. I had a very talented Grandmother who made clothes - for herself but also for me and other members of the family. That definitely was a source of inspiration. I also found out later on, (which made me think that some of what I now do must have come from my family DNA) that my family on my Father’s side owned a fabric business. 

My Mother was an English teacher and dressed impeccably. She definitely taught me how to pick a nice fabric and to appreciate shape and form. She has been a great influence. 

When I first moved to New York, my boyfriend at the time bought me a sewing machine and I started to make bags and clothes with no pattern. I would wear what I had made and students would ask me where I had bought something from and this really gave me the confidence to develop my ideas and designs further. 

As a relatively new designer, what do you consider to be your greatest challenges?

Selling is definitely the greatest challenge I face. Selling online has significant limitations for me in terms of reaching customers and fulfilling potential. Traditional retail is in decline with more and more stores closing so it’s hard to find a place within it. 

As a relatively new brand and without a fashion background, I have very few industry contacts so cold-calling buyers and boutiques can be hard and at time dispiriting when it results in rejection. I know this is something I have to keep doing though and that it will become easier over time! 

You have a very clear position on what it means to be producing fashion responsibly - from the natural fabrics you use, the fact that you produce your line in New York to your very exacting standards on ensuring that all workers are paid fairly. Why is this so important to you? 

I began my line two years ago and felt it was important to have a very clear idea of my values and ethics from the very beginning. The brand is a representation of me and what I stand for and believe in. This has informed all the decisions I have taken about my business from day one. I find that it’s hard to convey this online which is why I value interacting with people face to face. 

I have never wanted bigger margins or to cut corners in pursuit of profit and I never will. I feel it is so important to be consistent and remain true to my values, ethics and essence of the brand and that is something I will never compromise on. 

Where do you think the industry is as a whole in terms of ‘responsible fashion’?

I think awareness is growing but I think it’s a cycle. The fashion industry needs to push the message about responsible fashion and the importance of sustainability that in turn will start to force demand from consumers. I do understand that it’s hard to get the balance right and have a viable business. There’s still a long way to go. I’m hoping that consumers see the value of buying local, buying better and buying fewer. 

Given that you are a historian, do you look to the past for references and inspiration or are your ideas more contemporary and present day?

My mother introduced me to film noir and this has definitely influenced me but I am a movie lover in general so film is very much a reference point for me. I particularly love Faye Dunaway in Network. She had such a strong 70s look. 

I find the fashion of the 40s very inspiring; elegant straight lines with a masculine edge and no contradiction between strength and femininity. As a historian, I find it interesting how clothes are often an expression of an era or of a particular time and a way of communicating how you want to be seen. 

How did the collaboration with the artist, Jacques Barry come about?

Jacques is an old friend and I had admired his work for a long time. I began to experiment with printing different designs on to fabrics - photos, paintings and patterns  - and one day a mutual friend suggested that I talk to Jacques about using his work and turning it into a fabric design. I loved the idea as his drawings were fun and had lots of interesting emblems (keys, stars, fish) that I could turn into patterns. Luckily for me he agreed and said he wanted his art out there in many forms for all to see and gave me totally free reign. I took his drawings and then played with colour, proportion and scale to make the fabric that I wanted. I am delighted with the end result. 

Do you have anyone in mind when you design your clothes?

I try to imagine what a woman like me wants to feel and look like. To be both elegant and comfortable is important for me and I know that every woman wants to feel good in herself. I believe that styling is also very important and I have this in mind when I am designing. It starts with a well cut garment in a great colour, in beautiful fabric and a woman who buys her clothes this way can truly make it her own. I think this is reflected in the fact that my clients vary a lot in age from recent high school graduates to more mature ladies. 

What are your favourite places to go in NYC? Galleries, museums etc. Any interesting hidden gems you'd like to share….

When I first arrived in New York, I spent a lot of time at The Met. I would go all the time. I still go now but not as often. I love the Egyptian galleries, the European paintings and the American wing, in particular the Tiffany stained glass. 

I enjoy walking around the Flat Iron district and I always love wandering around ABC Carpet & Home. It’s a fun place to take visitors when they come to New York as it’s such a treasure trove and so beautifully put together. 

I’ve recently discovered Bushwick as one of my fabric printers is there and I really like the feel of the area. I love the murals and street art. 

One of my favorite hidden gems is the Noguchi Museum in Queens. I think his sculpture is the perfect interpretation of our relationship with nature. 

Lucy Curran, communications advisor and copywriter